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Asymptotic behavior of frequency and wave number spectra of nearshore shoaling and breaking waves

โœ Scribed by Kaihatu, James M.; Veeramony, Jayaram; Edwards, Kacey L.; Kirby, James T.

Book ID
119670509
Publisher
American Geophysical Union
Year
2007
Tongue
English
Weight
628 KB
Volume
112
Category
Article
ISSN
0148-0227

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Analytical determination of nearshore wa
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โœ Peter Nielsen ๐Ÿ“‚ Article ๐Ÿ“… 1983 ๐Ÿ› Elsevier Science ๐ŸŒ English โš– 745 KB

Explicit wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for linear waves are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of wave height variation on a simple topography; i,e. topographies with incrementally constant slope and straight parallel contours. The solution accounts for shoaling,