Analytical determination of nearshore wave height variation due to refraction shoaling and friction

✍ Scribed by Peter Nielsen

• Publisher: Elsevier Science
• Year: 1983
• Tongue: English
• Weight: 745 KB
• Volume: 7
• Category: Article
• ISSN: 0378-3839
• DOI: 10.1016/0378-3839(83)90019-4

✦ Synopsis

Explicit wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for linear waves are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of wave height variation on a simple topography; i,e. topographies with incrementally constant slope and straight parallel contours. The solution accounts for shoaling, refraction and frictional dissipation and will be sufficiently accurate for practical purposes considering the simplifying assumptions that are necessary for treatment of this problem by any method. The solution is simple enough to be handled on a personal calculator and has the advantage over numerical solutions that it can be solved for other parameters, for example to give friction factors from observed wave height data. The last chapter contains updated formulae for wave friction factors over movable beds.