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Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves: Part 2: Wave-induced setdown and setup on a submerged coral reef

โœ Scribed by C. Skotner; C.J. Apelt


Publisher
Elsevier Science
Year
1999
Tongue
English
Weight
316 KB
Volume
26
Category
Article
ISSN
0029-8018

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โœฆ Synopsis


In continuation of a recent companion paper (Skotner, C., Apelt, C.J., Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves. Part 1: Development and verification. Ocean Eng., in press) describing the development of a set of Boussinesq equations that can be used to study the transformation of waves before, during and after wave breaking provided the bed slope is relatively gentle, the present paper presents new data and tests the ability of the developed model to compute wave-induced setdown and setup of regular waves propagating onto a submerged coral reef consisting of relatively steeper slopes. This is done by comparison with new laboratory measurements conducted in a closed wave flume. The results show that the model computes accurately the setdown and setup of regular waves of small incident wave height but there is a tendency to underestimate the wave setup as the incident wave height increases.


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Application of a Boussinesq model for th
โœ C. Skotner; C.J. Apelt ๐Ÿ“‚ Article ๐Ÿ“… 1999 ๐Ÿ› Elsevier Science ๐ŸŒ English โš– 276 KB

Based on a set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion characteristics in deeper water, the present paper incorporates the simplified effect of spilling wave breaking into the equations. The analysis is restricted to a single horizontal dimension but the method can be