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Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves: Part 1: Development and verification

✍ Scribed by C. Skotner; C.J. Apelt

Publisher: Elsevier Science
Year: 1999
Tongue: English
Weight: 276 KB
Volume: 26
Category: Article
ISSN: 0029-8018
DOI: 10.1016/s0029-8018(98)00035-3

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✦ Synopsis

Based on a set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion characteristics in deeper water, the present paper incorporates the simplified effect of spilling wave breaking into the equations. The analysis is restricted to a single horizontal dimension but the method can be extended to include the second horizontal dimension. Inside the surf zone the vertical variation of the horizontal velocity profile is assumed to be composed of an (initially unknown) organised velocity component below the roller and a surface roller travelling with the wave celerity. This leads to a new set of equations which is capable of simulating the transformation of waves before, during and after wave breaking. The model is calibrated and verified by comparison with several wave flume measurements. The results show that the model produces sound physical results.

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