𝔖 Bobbio Scriptorium
✦   LIBER   ✦

On the Efficient Numerical Simulation of Directionally Spread Surface Water Waves

✍ Scribed by W.J.D. Bateman; C. Swan; P.H. Taylor


Publisher
Elsevier Science
Year
2001
Tongue
English
Weight
348 KB
Volume
174
Category
Article
ISSN
0021-9991

No coin nor oath required. For personal study only.

✦ Synopsis


This paper concerns the description of transient and highly nonlinear, near-breaking, surface water waves that are characterized by a spread of wave energy in both frequency and direction. A new spectral wave model is described that allows both the unsteadiness and the directionality of a wave field to be described in a fully nonlinear sense. The methodology underlying the scheme is similar to the unidirectional model developed previously by Craig and Sulem [13]. An approximation of the Dirichlet-Neumann operator is made that transforms the boundary values of the velocity potential, Ο†, at the water surface into values of Ο† z . This allows an initial spatial representation of the water surface elevation and the velocity potential on this surface to be time marched using fast Fourier transforms. The advantages of this technique lie in both its efficiency and its robustness. These are of fundamental importance when seeking to model extreme ocean waves, involving broad-banded frequency spectra and realistic directional spreads, since they incorporate a large range of horizontal length scales. In its present form, the model is appropriate to waves propagating on water of constant depth; it runs on a PC and is sufficiently stable to predict the evolution of nearbreaking waves. Indeed, the only significant restriction arises due to the Fourier series representation. This requires the water surface elevation to be a single-valued function of the horizontal coordinates and therefore limits the model to non-overturning waves. The new numerical scheme is validated against a fifth-order Stokes solution for regular waves and the recent experimental observations provided by Johannessen and Swan [3]. These latter comparisons are particularly important, confirming that the model is able to describe the rapid and highly significant energy transfers that occur across the wavenumber spectrum in the vicinity of an extreme event. These are strongly dependent upon the directionality of the wavefield and critically important when seeking to define the characteristics of an extreme, near-breaking, wave. The paper concludes with an example of the formation of a realistic, fully nonlinear and directionally spread wave group in the open ocean.


πŸ“œ SIMILAR VOLUMES


Numerical oscillatory on the simulation
✍ Liu Jiping; Zhou Zhijie; Chong Daotong; Yan Junjie πŸ“‚ Article πŸ“… 2007 πŸ› John Wiley and Sons 🌐 English βš– 213 KB πŸ‘ 1 views

## Abstract The SIMPLE algorithm for compressible flows is introduced to predict the thermoacoustic wave in a one‐dimensional closed region. The thermoacoustic waves are generated by an impulsive rise of the temperature on the left wall, while the other walls are kept at the initial temperature. Fo

Measurement of atmospheric water vapour
✍ Tokuo Kishii; Yasuhisa Kuzuha; Fumi Sugita; Michiko Hayano πŸ“‚ Article πŸ“… 2001 πŸ› John Wiley and Sons 🌐 English βš– 100 KB πŸ‘ 2 views

## Abstract Water vapour in the atmosphere and various meteorological phenomena are essential to the understanding of the mechanism of the water cycle. However, it is very difficult to observe water vapour in the atmosphere because the quantities are usually observed at a single point not over long

Watercourse Pollution due to Surface Run
✍ D.R. Lewis; M.B. McGechan πŸ“‚ Article πŸ“… 1999 πŸ› Elsevier Science 🌐 English βš– 412 KB

The Swedish soil water model SOIL has been calibrated for several drained fields in Scotland and Ireland. Drainage efficiency in these fields varies, with inefficient drainage systems leading to saturated profiles and large surface runoff flows. The model has been modified to represent drainflow in

A numerical study of the effect of free
✍ Q. D. Zhang; B. C. Khoo; K. S. Yeo πŸ“‚ Article πŸ“… 1997 πŸ› John Wiley and Sons 🌐 English βš– 149 KB πŸ‘ 1 views

The instability character of a wake in the presence of a free surface is examined by a recently developed GDQ (generalized differential quadrature) numerical method. It is shown that at low Froude number the wake near a free surface is convectively unstable, but when the Froude number is increased f