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Observations of surf beat forcing and dissipation

✍ Scribed by Henderson, Stephen M.


Book ID
118662073
Publisher
American Geophysical Union
Year
2002
Tongue
English
Weight
566 KB
Volume
107
Category
Article
ISSN
0148-0227

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И-Shaped surf beat understood in terms o
✍ Peter Nielsen; Tom E. Baldock πŸ“‚ Article πŸ“… 2010 πŸ› Elsevier Science 🌐 English βš– 316 KB

The observed И-shape of the long wave generated by a single short wave pulse is explained qualitatively by including the free waves which are generated along with the well known bowl-shaped forced wave. Free waves of complicated shapes are generally formed as the wave group encounters gradual depth