Metric pattern cutting for women's wear

✍ Scribed by Aldrich, Winifred

• Publisher: Wiley
• Year: 2015
• Tongue: English
• Leaves: 255
• Edition: 6th ed
• Category: Library

✦ Synopsis

Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wearprovides a straightforward introduction to the principles of form pattern cutting for garments to fit the body shape, and flat pattern cutting for casual garments and jersey wear.

This sixth edition remains true to the original concept: it offers a range of good basic blocks, an introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting and examples of their application into garments.

Fully revised and updated to include a brand new and improved layout, up-to-date skirt and trouser blocks that reflect the changes in body sizing, along with updates to the computer-aided design section and certain blocks, illustrations and diagrams.

This best-selling textbook still remains the essential purchase for students and beginners looking to understand pattern cutting and building confidence to develop their own pattern cutting style.

✦ Table of Contents

Cover......Page 1
Title Page......Page 5
Copyright......Page 6
Contents......Page 7
Introduction......Page 8
Pattern cutting and design......Page 9
Tools and equipment for constructing patterns......Page 10
General information......Page 11
Industrial sizing systems......Page 12
Standard body measurements......Page 13
Body measurement charts for high-street fashion garments......Page 14
Standard body measurements – women’s sizing......Page 15
Standard body measurements – women’s sizing......Page 16
Constructing block patterns......Page 17
General information – pattern cutting......Page 19
From block to pattern......Page 20
Pattern Outlines......Page 21
Seam allowances......Page 23
Pattern instructions......Page 24
Costing and garment sampling......Page 25
Skirts – specific information......Page 27
The basic skirt block (natural waist)......Page 28
The production skirt block (low waist)......Page 29
Straight skirt blocks......Page 30
Straight skirts......Page 31
Straight skirt block – gored skirt......Page 37
‘A’ line skirt block......Page 38
‘A’ line skirts......Page 39
Waistline finishes – facings and waistbands......Page 43
Waistline adaptations – inset waistband......Page 44
Waistline adaptations – yokes......Page 45
General information......Page 47
The basic trouser block......Page 48
The production trouser block......Page 50
Basic modifications......Page 52
Trouser adaptations......Page 53
Culottes......Page 56
The close fitting trouser/jeans block......Page 58
Jeans adaptations......Page 60
Basic jeans – adaptation......Page 61
Jeans – adaptations......Page 62
Hipster jeans – adaptation......Page 63
The ‘form’ body blocks – general information......Page 65
The close fitting bodice block......Page 66
The easy fitting bodice block......Page 68
The tailored jacket blocks......Page 70
The classic coat blocks......Page 72
The one-piece sleeve block......Page 74
The two-piece sleeve block......Page 76
The ‘form’ kimono blocks......Page 78
The sleeveless blocks......Page 80
The bodice blocks – waist shaping......Page 81
The dress, jacket and coat blocks – waist adaptations......Page 82
The lingerie and body fitting dress block......Page 85
The basic bodice blocks – general information......Page 87
The bust dart......Page 88
The bust and waist darts......Page 89
The bust dart in seams......Page 90
The bust dart in fullness......Page 94
Complex bust and waist shaping......Page 97
Extending a bodice adaptation......Page 100
General information......Page 101
Close fitting or easy fitting dress blocks – Adaptations......Page 102
Easy fitting dress block – Adaptations......Page 104
Close fitting dress block – Adaptations......Page 106
Close fitting or easy fitting dress blocks – waist adaptation......Page 109
Lingerie block adaptations......Page 110
General information......Page 115
Dressmaker jackets......Page 116
Tailored jackets......Page 118
Tailored jackets and coats......Page 119
Classic coats......Page 120
Sleeves – general information......Page 127
Changes to the armscye......Page 128
Inset sleeves......Page 130
Inset sleeves – extended shoulder......Page 138
Inset sleeves – extended sleeve......Page 139
Inset sleeves – raglan adaptation......Page 141
Kimono sleeves......Page 143
‘Form’ kimono sleeves – close fitting......Page 145
‘Form’ kimono sleeve – raglan adaptation......Page 147
Cuffs......Page 148
Collars – general information......Page 151
Necklines......Page 152
Openings......Page 153
Collars......Page 156
Flat collars......Page 157
Standing collars......Page 159
Collars cut in one with the garment......Page 162
Collars with revers......Page 166
Frilled collars and revers......Page 168
General information......Page 169
The easy fitting trouser block......Page 170
The simple trouser block......Page 172
The basic shirt block......Page 180
The flat kimono block......Page 182
General information......Page 189
Basic and easy fitting tee shirt, tracksuit and jersey blocks......Page 190
Hoods......Page 197
Knitwear blocks......Page 198
General information......Page 203
Close fitting body blocks......Page 204
Swimwear – block......Page 208
General information......Page 211
Grading one size up – ‘form’ cutting (4 cm intervals) – 1......Page 212
Grading one size up – ‘form’ cutting (4 cm intervals) – 2......Page 213
Grading one size up – ‘form’ cutting (4 cm intervals) – 3......Page 214
Grading one size up – ‘flat’ cutting (6 cm intervals) – 1......Page 215
Grading one size up – ‘flat’ cutting (6 cm intervals) – 2......Page 216
Chapter 15 Drafting blocks and fitting for individual figures......Page 217
Drafting blocks for individual figures......Page 218
Making toiles......Page 220
Pattern alterations for fitting figure problems......Page 221
General information......Page 231
From design concept to production......Page 232
Product Data Management (PDM)......Page 234
Product Lifecycle Management (PLM)......Page 235
3D Body scanning and sizing......Page 236
Pattern design and modification – 1......Page 237
Pattern design and modification – 2......Page 238
Garment sampling – 3D software programs – 1......Page 239
Garment sampling – 3D software programs – 2......Page 240
Pattern grading 1 – basic processes......Page 241
Pattern grading 2 – calculating a grade rule......Page 242
Pattern grading 3 – grade rule libraries......Page 243
Pattern grading 4 – grading the pattern......Page 244
Made-to-measure......Page 245
Production lay planning and marker-making......Page 246
Production marker-making and cutting......Page 247
Marketing......Page 248
Chapter Index......Page 249
EULA......Page 255

✦ Subjects

Couture;Fashion;Crafts;Sewing;Nonfiction;Patternmaking;Art;Reference