✦ LIBER ✦

Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

✍ Scribed by Heller, Peter

Book ID: 107805753
Publisher: Free Press
Year: 2010
Tongue: English
Weight: 279 KB
Category: Fiction
ISBN-13: 9780743294201

No coin nor oath required. For personal study only.

✦ Synopsis

With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery--of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.

Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave-- that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder--in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.

As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating,...

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