HLD concept as a tool for the characterization of cosmetic hydrocarbon oils

✍ Scribed by Véronique Nardello; Nelly Chailloux; Jérôme Poprawski; Jean-Louis Salager; Jean-Marie Aubry

• Publisher: John Wiley and Sons
• Year: 2003
• Tongue: English
• Weight: 143 KB
• Volume: 52
• Category: Article
• ISSN: 0959-8103
• DOI: 10.1002/pi.1012

✦ Synopsis

Abstract

The HLD (hydrophilic lipophilic deviation) concept was applied to several water/i‐C~13~E~n~/2‐propanol/hydrocarbon oil systems. For each oil, the optimum formulation, corresponding to HLD = 0, was determined by systematically changing the formulation as a monotonic variation of the surfactant ethylene oxide number (EON) scanned variable. The optimum value for EON (symbolized as EON*) was accurately pinpointed both by estimating the solubilization and by measuring the interfacial tension with a spinning‐drop tensiometer. This method allowed the classification of cosmetic hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, paraffin oil, squalane, squalene and hydrogenated polydecenes in C~30~, C~40~, C~40~–C~50~, on an equivalent alkane carbon number (EACN) calibration scale based on five linear alkanes covering the liquid range (C~5~ to C~16~).

© 2003 Society of Chemical Industry