Progress in ocean wave forecasting
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Peter A.E.M. Janssen
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Article
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2008
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Elsevier Science
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English
โ 493 KB
Progress in ocean wave forecasting is described in the context of the fundamental law for wave prediction: the energy balance equation. The energy balance equation gives the rate of change of the sea state caused by adiabatic processes such as advection, and by the physical source functions of the g