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Effects of wave breaking on wave statistics for deep-water random wave train

โœ Scribed by Nobuhito Mori

Publisher
Elsevier Science
Year
2003
Tongue
English
Weight
269 KB
Volume
30
Category
Article
ISSN
0029-8018

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โœฆ Synopsis

The experimental studies of the breaking effects on wave statistics for deep-water random waves are presented. It is especially focused on the behavior of kurtosis of surface elevations due to wave breaking. Wave breaking suppresses the maximum limit of kurtosis of the surface elevation, although skewness depends on characteristic wave steepness. The mean instantaneous wave steepness of breaking waves defined using the zero-down-crossing method was much lower than expected from the Stokes waves.

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