Digital Pattern Cutting for Fashion with Lectra Modaris®: From 2D Pattern Modification to 3D Prototyping

✍ Scribed by Patricia Grice

• Publisher: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
• Year: 2019
• Tongue: English
• Leaves: 321
• Category: Library

✦ Synopsis

Design your own original 2D patterns and use 3D prototyping to test your designs, achieve the perfect fit and make quick alterations. Pattern Cutting For Fashion with Lectra Modaris® will guide you from the basics of pattern modification through to 3D realisation, alteration and visual effects, as well as the completion of a finished production pattern. By viewing your garment in a virtual environment first, you will also be able to make design, colour, print and fabric decisions prior to toile making.
Workshops include: A basic t-shirt; Dart modification; Darts into seams; Darts into flare; Button wrap and facings; A basic jean; Pleats in a skirt/trouser with pocket; A shirt with two piece collar/yoke; Modelling on the half scale stand and converting pattern to full scale.

✦ Table of Contents

Cover page
Halftitle page
Title page
Copyright page
Dedication
Contents
Acknow ledge ments
About This Book
A Bit About Lectra
What Is Digital Pattern Cutting?
Intro duc tion To Modaris Classic And 3D
How To Use This Book
Inform a tion For Blocks And Patterns
CHAPTER 1 How It Works
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
HELP
MOUSE
MOUSE
SCREEN LAYOUT
KEYBOARD
FUNCTION TOOLS
SAVING
ACCESS PATHS
NAVIGATION/OPENING A MODEL
SCREEN LAYOUT WITH PATTERN
LEARNING OUTCOMES
CHAPTER 2 What Is Digitizing?
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
THE DIGITIZING BOARD AND MOUSE
DIGITIZING FUNCTIONS
PATTERN PREPARATION
CURVE POINT POSITIONING
DIGITIZING PREPARATION
DIGITIZING PROCESS
DIGITIZING TIPS
Exercise 2 Digitizing a T-Shirt Block
LEARNING OUTCOMES
CHAPTER 3 Getting Started
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
POINTS AND LINES AND THEIR MODIFICATION
TYPES OF POINTS – F1
ADDING POINTS
PRINT
MODIFYING POINTS
CHANGING A POINT TYPE
FURTHER F3 FUNCTIONS
ADDING AND MODIFYING LINES
SHEET MENU
PIECE MODIFICATION
MIRROR A PIECE
TO SPLIT THE PATTERN
TO JOIN PIECES TOGETHER
ADDING FULLNESS
EXTRACTING A SHAPE
GEOMETRIC SHAPES
TO CREATE A ROUNDED EDGE
CIRCLES
TO EXTRACT AN INTERNAL SHAPE
ASSEMBLY/CHECKING PIECES
ORIENTATION
LEARNING OUTCOMES
CHAPTER 4 Moving On –
Industrialization
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
NOTCHES
GRAIN LINES
SEAM ALLOWANCE
CORNERS
STEP IN SEAM
NAMING PIECES
ADDING TEXT
WHAT IS A VARIANT?
TO CREATE A VARIANT
MEASURING
TO MEASURE A LINE
TO CREATE A MEASUREMENT CHART
TO CUSTOMIZE A CHART LAYOUT
TO CALCULATE MEASUREMENTS
SIZE REPRESENTATION IN A CHART
SIZES
SIZE RANGES
TO CHANGE SIZE RANGES
LEARNING OUTCOMES
CHAPTER 5 Introduction
And Preparation
For 3D
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
A FOCUS ON 3D
THE PRINCIPLES OF 3D VIRTUAL PROTOTYPING
PATTERN PREPARATION FOR 3D
3D SUBSTITUTE PIECE
LINES TO SET AS 3D
VARIANT FOR 3D
ASSEMBLY/DESK OF STITCHES
CREATE PIECE TO STITCH
DESK OF STITCHES
TO STITCH SEAMS
SEAM TYPES
DEFINE POINTS FACING EACH OTHER
SLIP ON POINTS
LAYERS
LEARNING OUTCOMES
CHAPTER 6 3D Virtual
Prototype
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
THE 3D ENVIRONMENT
PREPARING FOR SIMULATION
MANNEQUINS
CUSTOMIZING A MANNEQUIN
HAIR
POSTURE
SIMULATION IN THE 3D ENVIRONMENT
MOVING AROUND THE SCREEN
ASSEMBLY/SIMULATIONIN THE 3D ENVIRONMENT
SSEMBLY/ASSEMBLE+
PRE-POSITIONING
CURVATURE
SIMULATION
RELAXATION
PULL FABRIC
FALL
MESH
CHECKING ASSEMBLY
LOCK
MECHANICALPROPERTIES
FABRICS
TO CHANGE FABRIC IN3D VIEW
TO CREATE RIBBING EFFECT
ADDING ELASTIC
STIFFENING
TO ADD OWN PRINT TO GARMENT
TO EDIT PRINT ON MANNEQUIN
TO CHANGE PLAIN COLOURS ON MANNEQUIN
SAVING AND OPENING FROM 3D
LEARNING OUTCOMES
CHAPTER 7 Confidence
Building
Workshops
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
BLOCKS AND INSERTING PATTERNS
SET ACCESS PATHS
2D PATTERN
VARIANT
3D PATTERN PREPARATION (CHAPTER 5)
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5)
3D SIMULATION CHAPTER 6)
TO PIVOT A DART
DART CAP
VARIANT
3D PATTERN PREPARATION
3D SUBSTITUTE PIECE
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5)
3D SIMULATION
EXERCISES TO TRY
BOTH DARTS INTO CF POSITION
DARTS INTO PARALLEL POSITION
SET ACCESS PATHS (CHAPTER 1)
VARIANT
ASSEMBLY – DESK OFSTITCHES (CHAPTER 5)
3D SIMULATION
VARIANT
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5: SLIP ON POINTS)
3D SIMULATION
OTHER EXERCISES TO TRY USING THE BODICE BLOCK
ARMHOLE DART AND FRENCH DART INTO A SEAM
SET ACCESS PATHS(CHAPTER 1)
VARIANT
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5)
3D SIMULATION
SET ACCESS PATHS(CHAPTER 1)
VARIANT
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5)
3D SIMULATION
FLARED TOP/DRESS
SET ACCESS PATHS(CHAPTER 1)
ADDING BUTTON POSITIONS
TO ADD A SEPARATE FACING
TO ADD A GROWN ON FACING
BACK NECK FACING
VARIANT
3D PATTERN PREPARATION (CHAPTER 5)
3D SUBSTITUTE PIECE (CHAPTER 5)
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES (CHAPTER 5)
3D SIMULATION
LEARNING OUTCOMES
CHAPTER 8 3D Advanced
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
TO ADD TWO GARMENTS
VISUAL EFFECTS
MATERIAL VISUAL EFFECTS
MORE FABRIC EFFECTS
DIFFUSION/OPACITY/BRIGHTNESS
TO SHOW A LINING
NOTION VISUAL EFFECTS
TO ADD BUTTONS
TO ADD OTHER EFFECTS
SEAM VISUAL EFFECTS
TO ADD TOP STITCHING DETAIL
TO CHANGE COLOUR OF STITCH
FITTING
TO CHECK THE EASE
TO VIEW THE EASE
TO CHECK THE BALANCE
TO TRANSFER LINES TO PATTERN
DRAWING LINES
DRAWING ON MANNEQUIN
OTHER TOOLS IN LINES/MEASUREMENTS
TO MEASURE LINES
ALTERATIONS
TO CUT A LINE
PINCH
UNSTITCH/RE-STITCH
TO UNSTITCH A SEAM
TO MAKE MODIFICATIONS TO PATTERN VIEW
LEARNING OUTCOMES
CHAPTER 9 Advanced Workshops
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
SET ACCESS PATHS (Chapter 1)
STRUCTURED POCKET
FLY FASTENING – FACING
FLY ZIP GUARD
BACK YOKE
BACK PATCH POCKET
WAISTBAND
BELT LOOPS
TICKET POCKET
A NOTE ON SEAM ALLOWANCE
STEPPED SEAM
VARIANT
3D PATTERN PREPARATION
POCKET BEARER
TICKET POCKET
WAISTBAND
BELT LOOP
SET AS 3D
BELT LOOP POSITIONS
BODY PIECES
ASSEMBLY- DESK OF STITCHES
BELT LOOPS
3D SIMULATION
WAISTBAND
FINALIZING THE PROTOTYPE
SET ACCESS PATHS (See page 6)
FRONT
PLEATS
BACK
3D PATTERN PREPARATION
VARIANT
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES
3D SIMULATION
SET ACCESS PATHS (CHAPTER 1)
FRONT PLEATS
WAISTBAND
VARIANT
3D SUBSTITUTE PIECE
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES
3D SIMULATION
SET ACCESS PATHS (CHAPTER 1)
BUTTON WRAP/GROWN ON FACING/PLACKET
BUTTON POSITIONS
YOKE
COLLAR CREATION
SLEEVE, PLACKET AND CUFF
SLEEVE
SLEEVE PLACKET
CUFF
VARIANT
3D PATTERN PREPARATION
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES
3D SIMULATION
SET ACCESS PATHS (CHAPTER 1)
ASSEMBLY – DESK OF STITCHES
3D SIMULATION
DRAPE/SCALE
TO APPLY SCALE
LEARNING OUTCOMES
CHAPTER 10 Quick Reference Guide