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Calculations of wave transformation across the surf zone

✍ Scribed by Ching-Piao Tsai; Hong-Bin Chen; John R.-C. Hsu

Publisher
Elsevier Science
Year
2001
Tongue
English
Weight
190 KB
Volume
28
Category
Article
ISSN
0029-8018

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✦ Synopsis

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport and design of coastal structures. An efficient numerical model based on the time-dependent mild-slope equation is presented in this paper for the estimation of wave deformation across the surf zone. This model incorporates an approximate nonlinear shoaling formula and an energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the calculation of wave height deformation prior to wave breaking and also in the surf zone. The model also computes the location of first wave breaking, wave recovery and second wave breaking, if physical condition permits. Good agreement is found upon comparison with experimental data over several one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope, bar and step profiles.

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