Book review: Hair and Hair Care, edited by Dale H. Johnson, Marcel Dekker, New York, 1997. No of pages: xii+370, price US150.00. ISBN 0–8247–9365–X.
✍ Scribed by Günter Holzner
- Publisher
- John Wiley and Sons
- Year
- 1998
- Tongue
- English
- Weight
- 60 KB
- Volume
- 13
- Category
- Article
- ISSN
- 0882-5734
No coin nor oath required. For personal study only.
✦ Synopsis
Jungermann. This multi-author book covers in 12 chapters the most important aspects of cosmetic hair care products. Most authors come from R&D of the cosmetic industry or university research and therefore give a very practical insight into this special segment of cosmetic preparation. The rich literature references will lead the interested reader to more detailed information.
Chapter 1, Morphology and Properties of Hair' by Max Feughelman, describes the morphology of hair from the alpha helix to the outside cortex, the structural chemistry and amino acid analysis of human hair. Chapter 2, Physical Properties of Hair' also by Max Feughelman, continues with a detailed description of the keratin±water interaction, the mechanical properties, supercontraction in keratin ®bres and the set in of a-keratin ®bres, which is summarized in: (a) bond breakdown to reduce the forces of retraction of the ®bre in the distorted state; and (b) creation of bonds in equilibrium with the distorted state. Chapter 3, Cleansing of Hair' by Michael Wong, gives over 200 literature references and describes the following details: hair soil; average composition of hair sebum; the problem of oily hair; cleaning action; shampoo performance; test methods; and dierent types and forms of shampoos, e.g. general purpose, conditioning-, anti-dandru-, baby-and dry-shampoo. The chapter concludes with a short description of the main shampoo raw materials and preservatives. Chapter 4, Conditioning of Hair' by Myra A. Hoshowski, describes hair damage and its causes: grooming; climatic exposure; chlorine and salt water; heat styling; and chemical agents. The dierent conditioning agents, e.g. cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, lipids and lipid substitutes like silicones and hydrocarbons are treated. Other additives like sunscreens, plant and herbal extracts, colours, preservatives and perfumes are also mentioned. A ®nal part with formulation ideas for most types of hair conditioners gives excellent practical advice. Chapter 5, Hair Styling/Fixative Products' by Joseph A. Dallal and Colleen M. Rocafort, represents a very complete work and includes all possible types of preparations in this segment. The reader will ®nd valuable advice concerning the technical development of the following products and problems: setting and styling aids for dry and wet hair, e.g. setting lotion, blow-dry lotion, working spray (gel), shaping spray (gel), curl activator, sculpting lotion, hair mousses (aerosol and non-aerosol with many formulas); product performance testing methods include curl retention, resin build-up and corrosion tests for aerosols (with a very complete list of corrosion inhibitors!). VOC regulations in several US States are indicated. Resins, propellants and valves are described. This chapter is very helpful for practical laboratory development. Chapter 6, Hair Waving' by Edward T. Borish, treats