Attenuation of swell in the north atlantic ocean

✍ Scribed by J. Darbyshire

• Publisher: John Wiley and Sons
• Year: 1957
• Tongue: English
• Weight: 515 KB
• Volume: 83
• Category: Article
• ISSN: 0035-9009
• DOI: 10.1002/qj.49708335708

✦ Synopsis

Abstract

Waves recorded in the decay area by a ship‐borne wave recorder on o.w.s. Weather Explorer are compared with estimates of waves in the generating area. By restricting attention to the wave energy contained within one‐second wave period intervals, it is possible to eliminate the effect of dispersion and to study the decrease in height due to loss of wave energy and the broadening of the wave front. While it is not possible to give an accurate assessment of the relative magnitude of these effects, the formula obtained in the case of calm conditions or following winds in the decay area is H~T~/H = (300/R)^1/2^, where R is the distance of the recording point from the centre of the generating area. This formula does not depend on wave period and following wind speed, and suggests that the effect of broadening the wave front is the more important. It has been used successfully in predicting wave heights and periods at Casablanca.