A note on wave-induced set-up by obliquely incident waves

✍ Scribed by T.T. Janssen; I.S. Jones

• Publisher: Elsevier Science
• Year: 2011
• Tongue: English
• Weight: 304 KB
• Volume: 58
• Category: Article
• ISSN: 0378-3839
• DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.04.004

✦ Synopsis

Water level variations due to obliquely incident, shoaling and breaking waves on a plane sloping beach were discussed recently by Hsu et al. (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865-877, 2006). An inconsistency in this work with respect to the set-down, and its implications to circulation offshore of the breakpoint, was pointed out by Shi and Kirby (Coastal Engineering, 55, 1246 -1249). Here we extend that discussion to include the surfzone momentum balance and wave-induced set-up. We discuss some remaining inconsistencies in the approximation of the surfzone momentum balance, derive and present a consistent approximation, and validate the new approximation through numerical comparison to a more exact model.